betting at Win Poker

When calculating odds, you need to use the number of discounted outs that will help you win the hand. As discussed before, it does you no good to improve your hand only to lose to a better hand. Let’s look at some examples to see better how you determine the number of discounted outs.
You have K♦ Q♣ and the board is J♦ T♣ 5♥ 2. You have eight strong outs to the nut straight with any ace or 9 and six weak outs to the king or queen. The six outs to the king or queen are weak since your opponent could ahead; have two pair or a set or is counterfeiting your outs.
In this example, a king would give you a pair but might also give an opponent a straight, two pair, or a pair with a better kicker. Note all the hands you would lose to if a king comes: KK, JJ, TT, 55, 22, AK, AQ. KJ, KT, K5, K2, Q9, JT, J5, J2, T5, and T2. If a queen comes, you would lose to QQ, JJ, TT, 55, 22, AK, AQ, K9, QJ, QT, Q5, Q2, JT, J5, J2, T5, T2, and 98.
How much you should discount your weak outs often depends on how many opponents you are against. In the example above, you have six weak outs. Against a lone opponent, if you feel that 50% of the time a king or queen will help you win, you should discount the six weak outs to three. In this case, you would play the hand as if you had an equivalent of 11 outs to win the hand, the three discounted outs and the eight strong outs to the nut straight. If you are against two opponents, you might estimate that a king or queen would win only once every six times; therefore, you would play as if you had nine outs, eight nut outs to the straight plus the one discounted out. Against three opponents, you should probably disregard the weak outs since it is unlikely a king or queen will win. In this case, you would play only if you draw to your eight nut outs is justified. Let’s look at some more examples.
You have A♣ T♥ and the flop is K♦ T♣ 5♠. You have two strong to the ten, unless an opponent holds KT or T5. Another ace would give you two pair, but your out is counterfeited if an opponent holds AA, AK, or QJ, so you should discount the out to the ace. All your outs should be discounted slightly for the possibility that an opponent holds a set. Depending on the number of opponents and the betting sequences, you should play this hand as if you had between two and four outs.
You have A♣ 9♥ and the flop is J♦ 9♦ 4♣ with several callers on the flop. You probably are against a flush draw, so the A♦ is counterfeited. You could also lose to another ace if someone has AA or AJ. Always account for the possibility of a set.
Hint: Whenever the flop is two-suited, you should discount a suited out against a lone opponent and probably disregard the out against several opponents for the risk that one of them holds a flush draw.
A common mistake made by many players is drawing to weak hands when flush draws are likely. As a general rule, most draws are not profitable with a two-suited flop arid several callers in the hand. The only exception to this is when the pot is exceptionally large. This is a key concept since you will be playing with a two- or three-suited flop about 60% of the time! This concept is discussed further in the flop chapters. For now, simply understand that you need to discount or disregard your outs based on the likelihood that they are counterfeited.
Another consideration when determining your outs on the flop is the possibility that you could improve on the turn only to see an opponent improve to an even better hand on the river.
Hint: When drawing on the flop, you should discount your outs a little, and maybe a lot, for the probability that your opponents could draw to an even better hand on the river.
There are very few hands that are a lock to win on the turn. Nut flushes can lose to a full house if the board pairs on the river. The nut straight can lose to a flush on the river. Your two pair could lose to an opponent hitting a set. When the flop is two-suited, these types of situations occur often since there are a lot of river cards that could hurt your hand.
Most players complain about their bad luck when they improve on the turn to lose on the river. Good players recognize that these types of situations occur a lot and include this possibility in their decision-making process. Borderline draws on the flop should often be folded for the possibility that you will lose on the river.
Now that we know how to determine the number of discounted outs and calculate the odds against improving to the best hand, we can look at how to apply odds at the poker table.

Overcards are cards higher than anything on the board. Let’s consider an example. You have
K♦ Q♥
and the flop comes
9♣ 6♥ 2♦
You have two overcards - can you call a bet? Can you bet? Many poker experts say that you can bet or call a bet in this sit¬uation. However, it takes a lot of experience and knowledge to know when you can play with just overcards. A bet with two overcards is usually a semi-bluff (you’re hoping to win the pot right there, but have chances of improving to the best hand). Most low-limit games are sufficiently loose and passive that a semi-bluff won’t work, so betting is probably not correct. We believe you are not losing much by folding in this situation if there’s a bet ahead of you. If it’s checked to you, take a free card and hope you turn top pair. In the situation above, if a queen or king falls on the turn, you probably have the best hand and can bet (or even raise).
Expert players are able to make some money with two overcards, but you are not giving up much by dropping them unless you have other possibilities (which we discuss below). Misplaying those overcards once or twice will cost you more than you could make by playing them correctly a dozen times. The problem with overcards is that you can win a little or lose a lot. Most of the time, you’ll have to throw them away on the turn because they don’t improve. Therefore, to make a profit with them, you must play aggressively when they do hit on the turn. If you pick the wrong time to do this, you may be raising with the worst hand. This is an area where you can improve your re¬sults by limiting your mistakes. Until you have a lot of hold’em under your belt and understand your opponents well, you can best limit your mistakes by staying out of these situations.
When you can play overcards
There are some situations in which you can call a bet with over¬cards:
Backdoor flush or straight possibilities. For instance, you have A♠-T♠ and the flop comes 9♥-6♠-2♣. Now you can call a bet since an ace or ten may give you the best hand, and another spade on the turn gives you the nut flush draw. If you’re hoping to make a backdoor straight, the turn should possibly give you an open end draw to the nuts. For instance, you have Q♣-J♣ and the flop comes 9♥-4♠-3♦. Again, you could make top pair on the turn, and a ten will give you a draw to two different nut straights. The higher your cards, the better, so if you do make the top pair on the turn, you will have fewer chances for an overcard to your top pair falling on the river.

A-K overcards on the flop
AK (often called “Big Slick”) is one of the most difficult hands to play if it “misses” the flop. You will either make top pair or two overcards with it, so you often find yourself wanting to con¬tinue with it, almost regardless of the flop. Do not fall victim to this trap. If you’re going to call with two overcards, AK is the hand with which to do it, but choose your places carefully. Look for situations where you’re virtually certain that hitting your pair will be good, you have backdoor draws, or suspect that an oppo¬nent is betting a draw. Furthermore, it is almost never correct to call a bet on the turn with an unpaired AK, unless you’ve picked up some other draw.
Once in a great while, you can raise with AK when it doesn’t pair on the flop, particularly if you suspect that the bettor doesn’t have a good hand. On rare occasions, this may cause the bettor to fold immediately, or at least get you a free turn card. If you are re-raised, or the bettor calls and then bets the turn, you are done with the hand. Realize that this is a deceptive play, and such plays have limited use in most low-limit games. Many players can not give up AK until the river fails to pair them; a classic tip-off is when somebody raises pre-flop and then passively calls a bet on the flop. If you detect such behavior, be prepared to bet hands that you might otherwise check on the turn; don’t give the two overcards a free chance to beat you.

A word of warning
In tighter games, you can use the flop to decide the chances that you’re up against two pair already. However, in a no fold’em hold’em game, many players are capable of showing you any two cards. For instance, in a tighter hold’em game you’d be more inclined to play overcards with a flop of T-5-2 since it would be unlikely somebody already had two pair. In lower limit games, you will see people win big pots with T5. This is another reason why it’s a marginal play to continue with just overcards in low-limit hold’em games.
You will routinely see your opponents continue playing (even calling a raise cold) with two overcards to the flop. You will also occasionally be sitting on the sidelines watching when your overcards would have made the best hand. Have faith, and throw them away the next time, too. For low-limit hold’em players, flopping two overcards is a marginal case of our next topic: what to do when the flop misses you completely.

Playing When the Flop Misses You
In completing our discussion of how to play on the flop, we need to remind you that this, unfortunately, will be the most frequent result of the flop: you get a very small piece of it, or less.
You’ll flop second or bottom pair with no overcards. Three to a Hush or straight and nothing else. One overcard. Your opponents will routinely call a bet in this situation, hoping to pick up a little more on the turn. This is where decisive action can save you a lot of money:
Fold and be done with it.
We have discussed essentially every case in which you can play beyond the flop. Every other time, your pre-flop investment is gone. Forget about it. Watch the rest of the hand. See how your opponents play, figure out what you would do in a similar situa¬tion. Get up and stretch, drink a glass of water. However, do not just throw in a loose call on the flop to see what happens next. This discipline alone will take you a long way toward becoming a winning hold’em player.

Every once in a great while, you will be fortunate enough to flop a “complete” hand - straight or better.

When you flop a straight
This is the weakest of the complete hands, and is vulnerable to the most draws. Therefore, you want to play a flopped straight fast. Also, any time you flop a complete hand, your opponents will be slow to give you credit for it - you may get almost un¬limited raises from two pair or a set. Consider the following ex¬ample: you have
9♣ 8♣
in late position. There are three calls in front of you; the button and both blinds call. Now the flop comes
6♥ 5♦  7♥
There is a bet and two calls in front of you. Many players would just call in this situation - that’s a mistake - you should definitely raise. There are already nine bets in the pot, and there are many cards you don’t want to see on the turn. If any heart or five through nine falls on the turn, you no longer have the nuts. Furthermore, if somebody has flopped a set or two pair, he may choose to slow play it (which is also a mistake, though in this case it’s to his benefit). Your raise may cause him to re-raise im¬mediately and you re-raise again. Note that this puts enormous pressure on heart draws and hands like T♦-8♦, which is impor¬tant. Of course, playing this fast on the flop will knock out some players who have little or no chance to beat you. You’re better off paying that price and forcing draws to pay a premium. If you flop an ace high straight and there are no flush draws that worry you, you can slow down a little bit. If you have A♠-Q♠ and the flop is K♥-J♦-T♠, it’s OK to check and call or just flat call a bet. However, if a lot of action breaks out, you should take off the gloves and start raising yourself - if somebody has two pair or a set, you want to punish them now while you know you have the nuts. By playing slowly, you run the risk of a card such as the Q♣ falling (in which case you have to split the pot with any ace) or a very scary card like the J♥ (which makes full hous¬es possible and may give somebody a heart flush draw). The more players you have against you, the more inclined you should be to play your straight fast.
If you flop the non-nut straight (you have 8♦-7♦ and the flop comes J♠-9♦-T♣), it’s even more important to play fast. If an eight, queen, or king comes, you have essentially nothing, so you have to start swinging immediately. Even trying to check-raise is probably a mistake. Go ahead and bet, hoping you get raised so you can re-raise. If somebody has KQ (or Q8), you are going to lose some chips - you can’t give up this hand unless a cou¬ple of very scary cards hit.

When you flop a flush
This is another situation where many players make a serious mistake by not playing fast enough. If you flop anything but the nut flush, you must bet or raise to charge higher flush draws dearly. Suppose you have
Q♦ T♦
in middle position, you call along with four others, the big blind raises, and you all call. Now the flop comes
8♦ 5♦ 2♦
and the big blind bets out. Slowplaying is out of the question here. The pot is so big you’d be happy to win the whole thing right here (but that isn’t going to happen). Anybody with the A♦ or K♦ is going to call (which is correct for them). Raise imme¬diately. If somebody makes it three bets, you can flat call, but you still need to bet again on the turn if a blank comes - you don’t dare give a single bigger diamond a free card. Again, if somebody has flopped a bigger flush than you, you will lose some money. However, far more frequently you will have the best hand - but you must play it fast.
If a fourth diamond comes, you are now in a check and call sit¬uation, especially if anybody called your raise cold on the flop. There is still some chance you have the best hand, but you don’t want to call a raise with it. If a fourth of your suit comes and you have a lower flush (say eight or nine high), you may have to give it up. The fact that you most likely were well in front on the flop means nothing - throw your six card flush away if there is sig¬nificant action.
If you flop the nut flush, you can wait until the turn to raise or check-raise. However, as we discussed with the straight, if a rais¬ing war breaks out on the flop, you should start raising as well. If the board pairs, then don’t check-raise - you might be giv¬ing a full house a chance to make it three big bets. Bet out imme¬diately and hope you are called but not raised. If you are raised, you should call. Only if the board pairs twice should you be will¬ing to abandon the nut flush.

When you flop a full house
With a pocket pair, you will flop a full house a little more than 1% of the time; with two cards of different rank, about 0.1% of the time (one out of a thousand hands). In general, your only concern at this point is how to extract the most money from the hand - your chances of being beaten are minuscule. With pocket pairs, you can flop a full house in two different ways: one of your rank plus a pair, or trips on the board. Of course, you prefer the former way - in the latter case there’s always the danger that somebody has the fourth one. First, let’s consider the “set + pair” scenario. Suppose you have
8♠ 8♣
in middle position with six callers. Now the flop comes
8♥ 5♥ 5♣
This is an excellent situation for you. Of course, you hope that the other two fives are in different hands and that there is a flush draw around as well. Your hand is altogether strong enough to slow play, but you may not want to do that. If one or two players have fives, you want them to start betting and raising immediately, so you might bet or raise once to get things going. However, you don’t want to scare anybody at this point. Let other people do the raising on the flop. If you’re lucky, the turn will complete the flush, and two other people will do all the raising for you while you are just along for the ride. Things will probably slow down on the river, and that’s when you can get in your raise(s). If no flush or straight draw is possible on the flop, you should slow down a lot, hoping the turn will give some people big draws (that are probably dead).
However, once the turn comes, you should start betting and raising. A person with a flush draw will only complete it one out of five times on the river. By raising on the turn, you get these people to call, trying to make their flushes and straights. You’re delighted if they make them on the river, but usually they don’t, so you need to collect from them on the turn.
The situation is somewhat different if your set is the lower of the two ranks on the board. Suppose you have those same black eights, but the flop is
8♥ T♣ T♠
This is a wonderful flop for you, but not quite as good as the first one. Unlike the first case, there is a small, but important chance you will get out drawn. Furthermore, you will usually have to pay off some pretty big raises when you are beaten. However, until almost guaranteed otherwise, you must play this as the best hand. This time, you can’t wait to show aggression. Start betting and raising immediately on the flop - with the negligible ex¬ceptions of TT or T8, you are winning for now. Don’t hesitate to cap the betting on the flop given the opportunity. The same is true on the turn - play the hand strongly. Be willing to put in a third bet on the turn, and only get nervous if somebody puts in a fourth bet. Sometimes you lose to a bigger full house with this hand, but worrying about that very much is seeing monsters under the bed. Play it for the best hand, and just be alert for the small possibility that one of those monsters is real. If the board pairs (such as two running sixes), you will probably have to fold. Fortunately, this doesn’t happen very often, but if you have been getting a lot of action on the turn, and then the turn card pairs, your full house is almost worthless. Furthermore, you’re going to get caught in a raising war if both tens are active. Give up and get out.
If the flop is all one rank when you have a pocket pair (.24% of the time), you have an awkward situation. If you have a big pair (tens or higher), you probably have to stay with it as long as no overcards fall. If an overcard to your pair hits, you are beaten by a single one of those as well as the fourth card of the flopped rank; now you can get out if there’s a lot of action. If you have a big pair you should bet the flop to avoid giving bigger cards a free card. Also, in this situation, almost anybody who has flopped the quads is going to slow-play. Use bets and raises on the flop to figure out who is willing to stick around. For instance, watch out for a player who calls a raise cold on the flop - pro¬ceed carefully. Plan to check and call on the turn and river - somebody with quads will probably wait for big bets to raise. If you hold two cards of different rank and flop a full house, the situation is similar to flopping top set with a smaller pair. Sup¬pose you hold
J♦ T♦
and call in middle position after two other callers. Now there is a caller behind you, a raise, and two cold calls. Everybody else calls. The flop comes
J♣ J♥  T♣
You’ve got the nuts, and the chance of your being out drawn at this point is almost nil. Unfortunately, it’s unlikely that you’re going to get much action from anybody. If somebody has the case jack, he’ll play with you - other than that you have to hope that there are some straight and flush draws out. You might as well start betting with this hand - hope that the last jack is, in fact, active, and that player starts raising. Many players will stay in with their draws here even though they’re drawing dead.

Note that initially we are discussing a split two pair - when you have two different ranks in your hand, and you flop one of each of them. We will discuss the “pair on the board” situation later in this chapter.
Two pair is a powerful hand that you can play quite strongly. However, it is rarely strong enough to slow play. If you are play¬ing quality hands, your two cards will be close to each other in rank (AXs being the obvious exception). That means that if you flop two pair you have to worry about a straight draw, if not a made straight. Adding the possibility of a flush draw, you have a hand that demands to be played fast; you need to reduce the odds for drawing hands.

When you flop top two pair
Suppose you have
J♦ T♦
and the flop comes
J♣ T♥ 5♥
You can be almost certain that you have the best hand right now.1 However, you are susceptible to lots of draws. You are es¬sentially even money with somebody who has
K♥ Q♥
Remember also that in low-limit games, the pot has already got¬ten big. You should do whatever you think will get the most money in the pot on the flop. If you think that a player behind you will raise, bet out immediately and hope you get to re-raise. If you think somebody will bet but not raise, check-raise. Of course, this is a situation where you don’t want to give a free card, so if there’s any doubt in your mind, bet.
If somebody puts in a third or fourth raise on the flop, you need to consider the possibility that he has a set. Now it might be cor¬rect to check and call on the turn and river. If you put in the last raise on the flop, you can bet this hand all the way to the end if the board is not threatening. For instance, suppose the final board is J♣-T♥-5♥-8♦-7♥. You should definitely bet when the 8♦ hits on the turn, but the 7♥ on the river is a terrifying card, as any nine makes a straight, and a flush is possible. You should check, and call if there is no raise. If there’s a raise, you’d have to fold here.
Even if the flop is J♣-T♥-7♥ (which makes a straight possible), you should play this hand aggressively. If somebody has a straight, he will probably let you know it quickly (he will be afraid of the flush draw as well). Again, in this situation, you can back off and just call bets. The board will have to become very scary before you should drop this hand.

When you flop “top and bottom” or bottom two pair
These hands are still strong, but they are vulnerable to the board pairing and draws. Suppose you have
7♣ 6♣
And the flop comes
Q♦ 7♥ 6♠
If another queen hits, you have just about nothing (but can at least fold with a clear conscience). Therefore, it’s all the more important that you get your bets in on the flop. Also, don’t be so eager to re-raise a second or third time as you would with top two pair. In the situation above, you’d like to believe that nobody was playing Q7o, but in low-limit hold’em, your opponents will routinely show you that (and Q6o, too).
As we discussed before, you should normally be playing cards that are fairly close in rank. Thus, you won’t be flopping top and bottom pair too often, with the occasional exception of AXs. When you flop two pair with that hand, play it fast. Many low-limit players will play any hand that contains an ace, and you could quite conceivably be up against the other two aces. If that’s the case, you can make a lot of money, and you don’t want to give them free cards with which to make a bigger two pair or pair the middle card on the flop. This also insures that you’ll be charging the straight and flush draws as much as possible.

Two pair with a pair on the board
This situation is far less desirable than a split two pair. For in¬stance, you have raised with
Q♣ Q♦
and the flop comes
T♥ 8♠ 8♥
Unfortunately, in low-limit games, many players are willing to play almost any two cards, so it’s hard to figure the probability of somebody having an eight. There is one obvious consideration - the more opponents you have, the more likely it is that one of them has flopped trips. If the entire table takes the flop, and there’s lots of action, you must get out. While you may have the best hand, you can’t play it with any degree of cer¬tainty, and somebody with an eight may just wait and then check-raise you on the river.
In the above situation, it’s worthwhile for you to bet on the flop, hoping to win the pot right there. However, if you get called, you have to slow down. You could be up against somebody with a ten, which is fine, but you also may have run into an eight. You should now check on the turn, but be prepared to call a bet on the river. Somebody may represent an eight and you can catch the bluff, but don’t give somebody who really does have an eight the opportunity to raise you on the expensive bets.2 Note that betting on the turn and river is a lose-lose situation for you. If you have the best hand, nobody can call you (for fear of the third eight). If you don’t have the best hand, you’ll get called or raised. If you bet the flop, and check the turn, you should be prepared to call a bet on the river if you don’t have a lot of opponents and no over¬cards to your pair have fallen. If they check to you again on the river after you’ve checked the turn, you should bet. One final thought about this situation: many players would never raise with an eight on the flop - they would wait until the turn to raise. If that’s the sort of player you’re up against and he raises on the flop, then you can treat your queens as the best hand and keep betting.
Obviously, if the board is paired over your pocket pair, you can fold at the first opportunity. In this case, you might not win even if you catch your miracle card.
The situation is similar if you pair one of your cards, and the oth¬er two cards are a pair. For instance, you have A♦-J♣ and the flop comes J♠-6♥-6♦. You can play it as you would the first ex¬ample. However, note that if you catch your miracle card (anoth¬er jack), you will now terrify somebody with a six, and he will just check and call, if that. Furthermore, you have to split the pot with the case jack if somebody has it. Therefore, this hand is even weaker than the first example and should be treated as such.

There is a problem in low limit poker. It’s a very annoying problem for players who play right poker. I mean if you consider pot odds and implied pot odds and make your bets according to them it may be very offensively for them to see other players winning huge pots with 75o. If the story continues they may even go on tilt with the situation.
Do you know this story well?
Have you ever seen that damn suckers at your table?
BUT they may also be right. They may be right calling you all the streets ACCORDING TO POT ODDS! And that’s the problem of low limit poker.
In low limit poker the pot will normally be quite large on the flop because there are many callers pre-flop. Furthermore, these players want to call your bets on the flop - they did not come down to the card club to fold! Assuming you have the best hand, you now have two possible scenarios:
1. If you have an excellent hand - one that is unlikely to be beaten, regardless of the turn and river cards - you are happy to have all these people calling your bets and raises.
2. If you have a good hand - one that is probably best right now, but susceptible to being beaten - you would like to eliminate as many opponents as possible. This, of course, is the much more common scenario.
The combination of a large pot and people’s desire to call puts you in a bad situation when you have a good, but beatable, hand. Your opponents’ instinct (which is to call a lot) coincides with correct play. That is, it may be correct for them to call your bet because the pot is large, but they are calling in part simply be¬cause they want to call.
Suppose, however, we make your opponents pay two bets rather than one to continue playing. Now, even with a relatively large pot, they may be making a serious mathematical mistake by call¬ing. As we have said before, this is how you make your money at low-limit hold’em.
A classic example
You are on the big blind with
A♥ Q♦
There are three callers, and then a raise in late position. You (correctly) call the raise. Now the flop comes
Q♣ 7♥ 5♠
At this point, you suspect you have the best hand. However, if you bet out immediately, you will be putting the 11th bet into the pot, making it correct for hands such as 98 and 65 to call. Oppo¬nents with those hands might well call anyway, but you want them to make a mistake by calling when they’re not getting suf¬ficient pot odds. Now suppose you check, and it’s checked to the pre-flop raiser. When he bets, you raise; the players in the middle have to call two bets cold. Instead of getting 11:1 pot odds, the player directly behind you is getting only 13:2. If he has 98 or 65, he may decide to fold rather than call two bets. If he chooses to call, you make money because the pot odds do not justify his call.
But suppose you check, and the person immediately to your left bets. Now some people call, and then you raise. If the original bettor re-raises, the other players are forced to call two (more) bets cold - another mistake. If the bettor doesn’t re-raise, the other players are getting correct odds to call the raise. Neverthe¬less, the net effect is that you get a lot of money into the pot when you are a big favorite and your opponents have weak draws.
You will find that your opponents in low-limit hold’em will not be as observant as those in higher limit games. However, most people remember being check-raised. If you use the check-raise often on the flop, some of your opponents will become hesitant to bet into you for fear of being check-raised. This can be a sig¬nificant advantage for you, as in the following example. You call in middle position with
8♦ 7♦
and the flop comes
A♥ 9♦ 3♣
Everybody, including you, checks to the player on the button. If he bets, you can’t call because you didn’t get any of the flop. However, he remembers your check-raising him twice during this session, so he checks his A5, and the turn comes
6♦
Now you are happy to call a bet on the turn as you have picked up an open-end straight-flush draw! Admittedly, this is an exceptional case (you caught the best card you could have hoped for), but any time you get a free card with a hand that couldn’t call a bet, you have gained a significant advantage. In this case, the specter of your check-raising got you the free card.
The problem with the check-raise.
When you decide to check-raise, you must be fairly sure that somebody behind you will bet. If you check with the intent of raising but nobody bets, a terrible thing has happened: you have given a free card. This is another reason why you have to watch and study your opponents. In the first example above, you would really like to check-raise. However, if the alternatives are betting out immediately or having it checked around the table, then you should of course bet.
Sometimes the reputation that you get for check-raising works to your disadvantage - people are unwilling to bet for fear that you will check-raise! This is good when you have a bad hand with which you’d like to get a free card. It’s bad when you have a good hand and want to check-raise. Since you could use a free card more often than you have a check-raising hand, it’s OK that your opponents are intimidated. However, if your check-raise is to work, you must be confident that at least one of your oppo¬nents is prepared to bet.
Note: in a very small number of public cardrooms and casinos, check-raising is not permitted. It is also prohibited in some home games. If so, your only potent weapon to use up front is gone. You must play extremely tightly in front, and bet all your good hands immediately. Hold’em without the check-raise is a crippled game.

When there is only one round of betting left and only one card to come, comparing your chances of improving to the pot odds you are getting is a relatively straightforward proposition. If your chances of making a hand you know will win are, say, 4-to-1 against and you must call a $20 bet for the chance to win a $120 pot, then clearly your hand is worth a call because you’re getting 6-to-1 pot odds. Those 6-to-1 odds the pot is offering you (excluding bets on the end) are greater than the 4-to-1 odds against your making your hand. However, when there is more than one card to come, you must be very careful in determining your real pot odds. Many players make a classic mistake: They know their chances of improving, let’s say, with three cards to come, and they compare those chances to the pot odds they are getting right now. But such a comparison is completely off the mark since the players are going to have to put more money into the pot in future betting rounds, and they must take that money into account. It’s true that the chances of making a hand improve greatly when there are two or three cards to come, but the odds you are getting from the pot worsen.

Reducing Your Pot Odds With More than One Card to Come
Let’s say you are playing holdem, and after the flop you have a four-flush that you are sure will win if you hit it. There are two cards to come, which improves your odds of making the flush to approximately 1,75-to-l. It is a $10-$20 game with $20 in the pot, and your single opponent has bet $10. You may say, “I’m getting 3-to-1 odds and my chances are 1,75-to-l. So I should call.”
However, the 1,75-to-1 odds of making the flush apply only if you intend to see not just the next card, but the last card as well, and to see the last card you will probably have to call not just $ 10 now but also $20 on the next round of betting. Therefore, when you decide you’re going to see a hand that needs improvement all the way through to the end, you can’t say you are getting, as in this case, 30-to-10 odds. You have to say, “Well, if I miss my hand, I lose $ 10 on this round of betting and $20 on the next round. In all, I lose $30. If I make my hand, I will win the $30 in there now plus $20 on the next round for a total of $50.” All of a sudden, instead of 30-to-10, you’re getting only 50-to-30 odds, which reduces to 1,67-to-l.
These are your effective odds — the real odds you are getting from the pot when you call a bet with more than one card to come. Since you are getting only 1,67-to-l by calling a $10 bet after the flop, and your chances of making the flush are 1,75-to-l, you would have to throw away the hand, because it has turned into a losing play — that is, a play with negative expectations. The only time it would be correct to play the hand in this situation is if you could count on your opponent to call a bet at the end, after your flush card hits. Then your potential $50 win increases to $70, giving you 70-to-30 odds and justifying a call.
It should be clear from this example that when you compute odds on a hand you intend to play to the end, you must think not in terms of the immediate pot odds but in terms of the total amount you might lose versus the total amount you might win. You have to ask, “What do I lose if I miss my hand, and what will I gain if I make it?” The answer to this question tells you your real or effective odds.
Let’s look at an interesting, more complex application of effective odds. Suppose there is $250 in the pot, you have a back-door flush draw in holdem, and an opponent bets $ 10. With a back-door flush you need two in a row of a suit. To make things simple, we’ll assume the chances of catching two consecutive of a particular suit are 1/5 * 1/5. That’s not quite right, but it’s close enough. It means you’ll hit a flush once in 25 tries on average, making you a 24-to-1 underdog. By calling your opponent’s $10 bet, you would appear to be getting 26-to-1. So you might say, “OK, I’m getting 26-to-1, and it’s only 24-to-1 against me. Therefore, I should call to try to make my flush.”
Your calculations are incorrect because they do not take into account your effective odds. One out of 25 times you will win the $260 in there, plus probably another $40 on the last two rounds of betting. Twenty times you will lose only $10 when your first card does not hit, and you need not call another bet. But the remaining four times you will lose a total of $30 each time when your first card hits, you call your opponent’s $20 bet, and your second card does not hit. Thus, after 25 such hands, you figure to lose $320 ($200 + $120) while winning $300 for a net loss of $20. Your effective odds reveal a call on the flop to be a play with negative expectation and hence incorrect.

PREDICTABLE PLAYERS

The average player
The average player does not do anything too extreme, he likes to play, but he is not overly aggressive with his hand nor does he play too passively. He will bet when he has a good hand, he will raise when he has a great hand, he will call when he has a passable hand, and he will fold when he has a poor hand. The average player will give himself excuses to stay in the hand rather than fold. The average player may be different at different limits. The average player in a $20/$40 game is a better player than the average player in a $5/$10 game. The average player in a $20/$40 game knows to play a little bit tighter (although he will still play too many hands) and knows a few tricks such as raising with a flush draw on the flop, although he may not know exactly why it may be a good play. The average player in a 5/10 game does not do anything overtly stupidly like call two raises with 96o, but he plays even more hands than the average player in a 20/40 game. The average player will put in a bluff now and then but not all that often. When he raises, you can usually count on him having a premium hand.
The calling station
The calling station likes to play along, and follow with everyone else. He does not want to disturb the game and perturb any of his fellow comrades by unnecessarily raising. When the calling station bets, you know he thinks he has a good hand. When the calling station raises, you better run for your life, because he has a monster. The calling station will play many hands, has no problem limping in while in early position, calling a professional player’s early position raise, or calling a bet when he has a pair of 8’s when there are three overcards on the board. Beware, the calling station could be unintentionally trying to rope-a-dope you. If you play too aggressively into him without a made hand, he will simply call you down with a middle pair or a bottom pair. You do not want to bluff the calling station because he thinks it is a social game like the one in his hometown where everyone plays just about every hand to the River and show the winning hand. He is our friend and as our friend, he will not get scared by your actions, he thinks you are his friend as well. A calling station is always a bad player.
The rock
Strangely enough, the rock and the calling station have some similarities. Like the calling station, the rock will only bet with good hands and only raise with very strong hands. As with the calling station, you must be very careful when the rock bets or raises. It is important to give both the calling station and the rock respect when they show aggression. That is where the similarities end. The calling station plays a lot of hands, while the rock plays very few hands. The rock may sit there for hours folding his starting hands and will have no problems folding his blinds. He is the prime candidate to steal the blinds from, but when he does play a hand, watch out. The rock usually thinks he is a better player than the average player. He values patience above all else, and since he is the most patient at the table, he usually thinks he is the best. In some games, he may be right. Some rocks will open up their game when they lose a few bad beats because they cannot believe the worse players are beating them, but most of them will have more discipline, which is why they were rocks to begin with. A rock is typically a good player, although he will not extract as much edge out of the game as better players will, a rock would not be defined as a sharp player. Rocks can be long term winners in low limit games and some middle limit games, but they will need to expand their game and creativity in order to win in the higher limit games.
The solid player
The solid player is a player who has some idea of correct play. He knows he needs to be patient to win at this game, but he is not overly tight. He will play more hands than a rock and he will usually be aggressive when he does play. If he raises from early position, he is predictable because he will have a quality hand. If he open-raises from late position, his hand will be harder to predict because he understands he can loosen up in that position and he is not afraid to try to steal the blinds. You normally want to avoid the solid player when he is raising. He may not bluff or semi-bluff enough because he does not usually take too many chances. Some players will play like a solid player only to morph into a different type of player after a while at the table. The solid player is a good player.
UNPREDICTABLE PLAYERS
The loose aggressive player
The loose aggressive player likes to play a lot of hands. Unlike the calling station, he likes to play them with raises instead of calls. He will raise and bet when his cards are warranted, but he may sometimes bet and raise when it is not clear that he has the best hand at the moment. The loose aggressive player likes to bet on the come. He will use the free card raise as often as he can, even if he just has overcards. Once he raises for the free card, he oftentimes feels compelled to keep betting due to the perceived weakness of his opponents if they are just calling him. It may feel necessary to rope-a-dope the aggressive player by flat out calling him instead of scaring him off with a raise or a re-raise. At times you may feel that he has just enough to go toe-to-toe with you even though you have the nut hand. The loose aggressive player is always trying to steal the blinds, even from middle position. He will bluff more often than the average player and he loves the semi-bluff concept and overdoes it. Because he plays so many hands and is aggressive with them, it may be harder to predict his holdings. They may sometimes run you over when they actually have the goods. Loose aggressive players are usually not good players, however they can get in some streaks where it may seem like they are the best player around.
The maniac
The maniac is Mr. Hyde to the loose aggressive player’s Dr. Jekyll. The maniac is completely out of control and raises sometimes even without looking at his hole cards. Everyone is licking their chops to get a piece of this guy. Maniacs will raise and bluff way too often and they will usually lose their money quickly. Maniacs may not play like maniacs all the time. Sometimes players who are just having a bad day turn into maniacs when they are on full tilt. This can happen after they have been dealt a couple of bad beats which could lead them to play very aggressively in order to get back to even. The maniac is a horrible player.
The professional players
The professional players are the best players and the ones that you least like to see at your table. They could be playing poker as their main source of income or they could be playing it as a supplemental income. They are playing poker mostly to win unlike other players who may be playing for the gamble, the entertainment or just the competition. Professional players understand the importance of playing aggressively when they have a solid hand and they also understand the importance of choosing their hands selectively. They will try to extract the most amount of edge from their opponents when they have the best of it, but try to get away cheaply when they have the worst of it. Professional players have thought about and studied the game, be it through reading, talking to other players or just thinking about the game. Professional players will still have a wide range of characteristics in their style. Some will be more aggressive than others, some will bluff a bit more than others. Of course, there are always those who consider themselves as professional players who really are not.
Players can change styles depending on if they are winning or losing
There are players who will try to play solidly when they first sit down, and continue to play solidly if they start off winning. But some players can change their styles drastically if they start to lose, particularly if they take a bad beat. All of a sudden, these players will go from playing solid to being a bit more aggressive, semi-bluff and bluff more. If they continue to lose and get some of their bluffs called, or better yet, get another bad beat, they could wind up opening up their game and could turn into a maniac-type of player.
This is one of the situations where having played with the player in the past and knowing this particular characteristic is very useful. If it is the first time you ever played with him and he plays like this, you may assume this is how he plays and use that information the second time you play at the same table with him. But the second time around, he may be running good and playing solidly, in which case, your perception of him will be completely off.

All-Blogs

Your position
Your position is simply where you are in relation to the button. Being on the button is the best position because you will act last in all but the first betting round. Being one to the left of the button is then the worst position.
Position is perhaps the most undervalued component of good hold’em play. It’s easy to see that bigger cards are better, suited is better than non-suited, and if there is raising going on, you need a stronger hand to play. However, many (if not most) low-limit hold’em players make their playing decisions without considering their position. If you play without careful attention to your position, your bankroll will suffer.
By acting after other players, you know what they will do (check, bet, etc.) before they know what you will do on a given betting round; this gives you an advantage. For instance, suppose you have a very strong hand. If your opponent acts before you and bets, then you raise. If he checks, you bet. Regardless of his action, you get the maximum amount of money in the pot. On the other hand, if you’re first to act, then you must decide between betting immediately, hoping he will call, or trying to check-raise. If you check with the intent of raising and he checks too, you have lost the bet you would have made had you bet and he called.
Here’s another example of the importance of position. Suppose you have 55 as your starting hand. If you are the first to act before the flop, you normally shouldn’t call. We will cover this in detail shortly, but you need a lot of opponents to play small pairs. Suppose you call with your 55 in early position. If the next player to your left raises and scares out the other players, you now wish you hadn’t called the original bet. However, suppose you are on the button. If somebody raises early and limits the pot to two players, you fold, knowing you’re doing the right thing. But if six players call in front of you and there’s no raise, you can call with your fives. Simply being closer to the button means you have more information about how many opponents you will have and how much you’ll have to invest, enabling you to play this hand.
There is one aspect of position that is perhaps not as important in low-limit hold’em as it is in the higher limits. In tough hold’em games, when the flop doesn’t hit anybody, the player last to act can often bet and win the pot immediately. Because of the number of “calling stations” that are often in a lower limit game, it’s unlikely you’ll be able to do that. However, good position is still vitally important, and you must consider it at all times.
For the purposes of this text, we will consider a nine-player table. We’ll declare the first four positions to the left of the button “early position,” the next three “middle position,” and the last two (including the button) “late position.” Of course, you’ll need to adjust this for the exact number of players at your table. When doing so, tend to err on the side of caution; if you can’t decide if it’s early or middle position, call it “early.”

Your relative position
There is another aspect of position to consider - let’s call it “relative position.” It is where you sit in relation to specific other players at the table. Obviously, your position with respect to the button will change as it moves around the table. Your relative position to another player will be less volatile. For instance, if you sit immediately on a player’s left, then you’ll act after him on every hand with the exception of ones on which he has the button. If you sit directly opposite him at the table, you will act before and after him equally often.
If there is a player who is very aggressive and raises a lot, you’d generally like to be to his left. That way, you’ll see those raises coming before you act and can drop your marginal hands. If you sit to his right, too often you call one bet only to have him raise behind you and now you wish you’d saved the first bet.
If, however, that player bets and raises almost always (let’s say 90-95% of the time), then you want to have him on your left. Because he’ll be initiating action so frequently by betting or raising, you’ll effectively act last after he has started the action. For instance, this gives you the opportunity to check-raise the entire table when you make a strong hand. Remember, for this to be correct, that particular opponent must be almost guaranteed to bet or raise when given the chance. Otherwise, keep him to your right.
In general, you’d like to have loose passive players to your left. They behave predictably so you’re more willing to have them act after you. You will have an easier time predicting what they’ll do, and will make the right play more often.
You may even want to move into an empty seat that gives you better position with respect to certain players.

TBC

1/ You hold 6♣ 5♣ in the big blind. An early player calls, the button raises, the small blind calls, and you call. Four players see the flop of 9♠ 6♦ 3♦. You bet out. The early player calls and the button raises. The small blind calls and you call. All four players see the turn of 5♦. The small blind bets. You raise, the early player reraise, and the small blind calls. There is $320 in the pot. What do you do? (The answer is below  in black font. Mark all the space below in order to know the right answer.)   Answer: Call. You are most likely against a flush. There is also a chance you could be against a straight or a set. You have four strong outs to a full house unless an opponent has 99, or possibly 66 or 55. Four outs are 11 to 1 requiring only a $220 pot for calling to be correct. Note that your raise on the turn was questionable, as a flush was a high possibility given that three opponents paid two bets on the flop to see the turn. In the actual hand, the player called and lost to the early player who showed A♦ Q♦.   2/ You hold Q♥ J♥ in early position. An early player calls, the next early player raises, and you call. A middle player, the cutoff, the button, and the big blind all call. Seven players see the flop of 9♣ 8♠ 6♥. The cutoff bets and the button raises. The first early player calls and the preflop raiser folds. You call and four players see the turn card of K♦. The cutoff bets, the button calls, and the early player calls. There is $430 in the pot. What do you do? (The answer is below  in black font. Mark all the space below in order to know the right answer.)  Answer: Call. Calling bets on the turn for a gut-shot straight is rarely correct unless the pot is quite large. In this hand, the pot is large and your call will close the betting so that you don’t risk a raise behind you. Your four outs are to the nuts since the board is not two-suited or paired. Four outs are 11 to 1 against improving requiring a pot of $330 to justify a call. In the actual hand, the player called and the T♥ fell on the river. He bet and one opponent showed T♠ 9♠.   

3/ You hold A♠ 3♠ in middle position. A middle player limps in and you call. The cutoff, button, and small blind all caps. A wild unpredictable player raises from the big blind and everyone calls. Six players see the flop K♠ Q♦ J♠. The big blind bets, you call, the cutoff raises, and you both call. The turn is the K♣. The cutoff bets and the big blind raises. There is $360 in the pot. What do you do? (The answer is below  in black font. Mark all the space below in order to know the right answer.)  Answer: Fold. You are 4 to 1 against hiding the flush and are getting sufficient pot odds of 6 to 1 on the flush if it would win. However, there are several problems with calling in this situation.   Assuming that your opponents don’t already have a full house, couples of your outs are probably counterfeited and should be disregarded since it is likely that at least one of your opponents holds a king. In this case, you will lose to the Q♠ or to another spade if it matches your opponent’s kicker card. This reduces your outs to seven, which is 6 to 1 against improving and is even money with a pot of $360; however, this is your best case. With a pair on the board, you need to discount your outs for the decent chance that you are drawing dead to a full house. Possible hands of your opponents include KK, QQ, JJ, KQ, and KJ. Some players may add outs for the possible straight; however, you would lose to a full house or KT. Even if the straight won, you would probably only split the pot.   In the actual hand, the player called. The flush came on the river. The big blind folded and the cutoff showed K9. The player collected a large pot in this particular case, but his call has a long run negative expectation given the pot size and betting sequences that occurred in the hand.   

4/ You raise in early position with A♣ K♣. A middle player calls and both blinds call. Four players see the flop of 9♠ 5♦ 3♦. The big blind bets, you raise, the big blind reraise, and you call. The turn is the 2♣. The big blind bets. There is $320 in the pot. What do you do? (The answer is below  in black font. Mark all the space below in order to know the right answer.)  Answer: Call. The worst case scenario is that your opponent has a set or two pair. A straight is doubtful based on the betting sequences in the hand. Even in the worst case scenario, you still have four good outs to a gut-shot straight. A gut-shot draw is 11 to 1 requiring a pot of $440; however, you also have additional outs if your opponent is betting a pair. These outs are counterfeited however if your opponent holds A9, A5, A3, K9, K5, K3, a set, or two pair. I would discount the six outs to the ace or king down to three outs; therefore, J would play the hand as if I had seven outs, which is 6 to 1. Odds of 6 to 1 require a $240 pot; therefore, calling is justified. In the actual hand, the 4♦ came on the river giving the player a straight while his opponent showed 5♥ 3♥.    5/ You hold A♣ K♣ on the button. A middle player calls and you raise. The big blind reraise and you both call. Three players see the flop of Q♠ J♥ 8♠. The big blind bets and you call. The turn is the 9♦. The big blind bets. There is $270 in the pot. What do you do? (The answer is below in black font. Mark all the space below in order to know the right answer.)   Answer: Fold. You have 10 outs to improve your hand; however, an ace is counterfeited or already no good if your opponent holds AQ, AJ, AT, AA, QQ, JJ, or TT. All of these hands are possibilities from a reraise in the big blind. In fact, the only reasonable hand that you could expect to beat if an ace comes is KK. If the river is a king, your situation is worse as you could not heat any reasonable hands, and will only split if your opponent holds AK also. You have four strong outs to the gut-shot straight, although there still is the possibility you might split. Four outs are 11 to 1 and require a pot of $440 to be profitable. In the actual hand, the player folded.    

1/ You hold in the small blind. A middle player and the button calls. You call and four players see the flop of . The middle player bets and the button calls. There is $120 in the pot. What do you do? (The answer is below in black font. Mark all the space below in order to know the right answer.)

Answer: Fold. You have five outs to improve your hand, which is 8 to 1. The pot odds are only offering 6 to 1 so you should fold. Even with better pot odds, you would need to discount your outs for the possibility that you are drawing practically dead to AA, QQ, 99, 66, AQ, A9, A6, K6, Q9, Q6, J6, and T6. Rarely draw to two small pair unless the pot is exceptionally large, and preferably when an ace is not on the board since there is a better chance that your outs are counterfeited with someone holding Ax {any hand with an ace in it).

2/ You hold in the small blind. A middle player and the cutoff call. You call and four players see the flop of . You check, the big blind bets, and the middle player and cutoff both call. There is $140 in the pot. What do you do? (The answer is below in black font. Mark all the space below in order to know the right answer.)

Answer: Fold. You have five outs to improve your hand; therefore, you are 8 to 1 against improving requiring a pot of $160. In addition, with so many callers, there is a good chance that one of your opponents flopped a straight, a set, or two pair with this type of flop. If an opponent has two pair, your outs are reduced to three if they hold a 9 also. If an opponent holds a pair, your ace is counterfeited against AQ or AT. Even in the best case scenario where you improve to the best hand on the turn, with so many opponents there will be many ways you could lose on the river. You need very good pot odds to draw with such a dangerous flop against so many opponents. In the actual hand, the player folded. One opponent showed Q9 and the other KJ.

3/ You hold on the button. An early player and middle player call. You raise and the small blind calls. Four players see the flop of . The middle player bets. There is $10 in the pot. What do you do? (The answer is below in black font. Mark all the space below in order to know the right answer.)

Answer: Raise. Note how your hand and the flop are almost identical to the previous problem; however, there are two main differences. First, the pot was raised preflop, giving you better pot odds. Second, two opponents have checked, indicating weakness. This differs from the previous hand where you already had three callers, making it difficult for you to have a winning hand. Your opponent could be betting a straight draw with a weak pair, in which case you may currently have the best band.

In low-limits, most opponents slowplay straights, sets, or even two pair, so usually you do not have to worry about those hands. Even if your opponent has top pair, you have five outs, which is 8 to 1. The pot odds are 10 to 1 so calling is justified; however, I prefer raising in this situation. Raising will drive out the other opponents from weak gut-shot draws and may allow you to possibly take a free card on the turn. Raising will also give you information on the flop about your opponent’s hand once you see how he responds. In the actual hand, the player just called and hit a full house when an ace fell on both the turn and river. The bettor folded and the early player showed A8.

4/ You hold in the big blind. A middle player, the cutoff, and the small blind call. Four players see the flop of . The middle player bets and the cutoff calls. There is $6 in the pot. What do you do? (The answer is below in black font. Mark all the space below in order to know the right answer.)

Answer: Fold. You have four outs to the gut-shot straight, and this is reduced to three outs if one of your opponents has a flush draw. You also are drawing dead if one of your opponents holds AA, TT, AT, or KT. Three outs are 15 to 1 and the pot is only $6. In the actual hand, the player called both the flop and turn and got his straight when the K♦ fell on the river. Unfortunately, one of his opponents had 6♦ 5♦ and hit a flush. Straight draws go down in value when the flop is two-suited or paired, especially when they are only gut-shot draws.

5/ You hold in the big blind. An early player calls, the next early player raises, and the button, small blind, and you call. Five players see the flop of . You decide to check and the early position player bets into the preflop raiser who decides to raise. The small blind and you call. The early player reraises and the preflop raiser caps the betting. The small blind calls. There is $11.50 in the pot. What do you do? (The answer is below in black font. Mark all the space below in order to know the right answer.)

Answer: Call. With so much, action you are probably against a straight, so you will need to improve. You have four outs to a full house, which is 11 to 1 against improving, but you are getting 12 to 1 pot odds assuming the early position player calls. If you do hit one of your outs, you should win a lot more bets. In the actual hand, the player folded. An opponent with Q♣ 8♥ won the hand. Although this player saved some bets since a jack or 9 did not come, the actual result of the hand does not mean his play was correct. In the long run, he would make more money by calling with the implied pot odds he was receiving.

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